In today’s world, fast fashion and mass production heavily rely on electricity. It’s hard to imagine creating fabric without it. Handloom fabrics, however, stand out. They are woven from fine threads into beautiful textiles, all by hand. This unique process eliminates the need for electricity, making them truly special.
Keep reading to discover the history of handloom fabric and how such beautiful textiles like cotton handloom fabric can be created without the environmental impact of electricity.
Handloom fabrics have a rich history. We can trace them back to ancient civilizations. Handloom weaving began in Mesopotamia around 6000 BCE. Like many popular techniques, it spread throughout the world. It reached Egypt, Greece, and China.
Throughout these times in history, handloom textiles held power. The finest linens were reserved for royalty and temple priests.
In Europe during the medieval period, guilds were established in order to bring structure to handloom weaving. They established high-quality standards for weavers. With these standards, The Renaissance saw further development of the craft. Handloom fabrics and weaving became more sophisticated in its techniques and patterns. It wasn’t long before it became highly sought after in global trade.
The biggest changes to handloom weaving came with the Industrial Revolution. The invention of the power loom in the 18th century revolutionised textile production. This, in turn, made production much faster, which led to a significant decline in demand for handloom fabric.
As a result, many traditional weavers were displaced and lost their livelihoods. Interestingly, the challenges to the artistry and craft of hand weaving at this time were similar to the challenges we face today with fast fashion.
The artisans we collaborate with in India have a long heritage of handloom weaving. Because of this, they know first hand how this craft fosters both unity and work.
India’s relationship with handloom weaving extends over 5,000 years, back to the Indus Valley Civilisation. As mentioned earlier, numerous archaeological discoveries point to India as an early and major exporter of fine textiles. This shows its significance in the global trade.
British colonisation severely impacted India’s handloom industry. The British flooded the Indian market with machine-made textiles, causing the decline of local handloom weaving.
In response, Mahatma Gandhi launched the Swadeshi Movement in the early 20th century. He advocated for hand-spun and handwoven fabrics known as Khadi. As an example, take a look at the handwoven cotton fabric today within our handloom collection, which includes a few khadi cottons!)
The Swadeshi Movement played a pivotal role in India’s fight for independence. For example, it symbolised and promoted self-reliance and national pride. This movement was a broader socio-political strategy. It aimed for economic independence, cultural revival, and social equality.
“Swadeshi” means “of one’s own country.” The movement encouraged Indians to boycott British goods and revive domestic industries. Gandhi urged every Indian to spin their own yarn and wear Khadi. This symbolised resistance and self-sufficiency.
Gandhi’s economic philosophy emphasised self-sufficiency and sustainable living. He criticised the industrial model, which prioritised mass production and consumption, leading to social and economic inequalities.
Because of these beliefs, Gandhi advocated for a decentralised economy. Small-scale industries and cottage crafts would play a crucial role in this model. The handloom sector perfectly exemplified this vision, a set of ideals that resonate with anyone who believes in today’s slow fashion movement.
Our handloom cotton fabric is made using a pit loom. A pit loom is operated by two peddles, and is situated on the ground / floor where the weaver sits in a ‘pit’. Fabric created with a pit loom is considered a high quality weave as the tension between the ground and the speed make the fabric breathable and highlights the character of the fibre.
I wanted to include this loom because it’s the simplest form of hand weaving, and likely the most recognisable. If you’ve used one of these looms, you’ll be familiar with the movement and technique: you weave the weft threads forward and backward through the vertical warp threads.
This type of loom is a great way to visualise and practice what the more complex handloom machines accomplish. It is also a really accessible way to try weaving yourself!
1) Handloom fabric is the only fabric where the play of texture is so unique that no two fabrics will be the same. This makes each handloom garment completely unique and exclusive.
2) Women comprise 70% of the artisans involved in the process of yarn to fabric production.
3) Handloom fabric is environmentally friendly and sustainable. The process involves no environmental pollution and occurs without electricity, making it incredibly natural from start to finish.
4) Supporting and buying handloom fabric enables the full development of locally available raw materials and human resources. It empowers weavers, empowers women, and generates employment.
